The Balkans remain one of Europe's last genuine frontiers for road trippers. While Western Europe's great driving routes are well-documented and increasingly crowded, Southeast Europe offers landscapes every bit as dramatic, coastlines as beautiful as anything in the Mediterranean, and a fraction of the traffic. The region is also astonishingly affordable: fuel, accommodation, and food cost a fraction of their Western European equivalents, meaning your road trip budget stretches much further.
But the Balkans offer something beyond scenery and value. This is a region where cultures, religions, and histories collide and overlap in ways that are visible from the car window: Ottoman mosques beside Austro-Hungarian civic buildings, communist-era monuments on mountain passes, medieval monasteries hidden in gorges. Driving here is an education as much as a holiday. Here are four of the greatest road trips in the region.
1. The Bay of Kotor, Montenegro
The Bay of Kotor is often compared to a Norwegian fjord transplanted to the Mediterranean, and the comparison is apt. This deep, winding inlet on Montenegro's Adriatic coast is surrounded by mountains that rise to nearly 1,800 metres directly from the water, creating a landscape of extraordinary vertical drama. The road along the bay's edge is one of the most scenic drives in Europe, passing through medieval stone towns, past waterside churches, and under sheer limestone cliffs.
Kotor itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a perfectly preserved medieval walled town tucked into the innermost corner of the bay beneath the fortress of San Giovanni. The climb to the fortress involves 1,350 steps and rewards with views that are genuinely life-changing: the entire bay spread out below, the terracotta roofs of the old town, and the mountains disappearing into haze.
Bay of Kotor driving route
- Herceg Novi to Kotor (43 km): Follow the bay's northern shore through Bijela, Risan (with its Roman mosaics), and Perast (home to two tiny island churches). This section takes much longer than the distance suggests because the road hugs every inlet.
- Kotor to Budva (25 km): Cross the Vrmac peninsula via a series of 25 hairpin bends climbing to a mountain pass with staggering views back over the bay. The descent into Budva reveals the open Adriatic.
- Budva to Sveti Stefan (10 km): A short coastal drive to one of the most photographed spots in the Mediterranean, a fortified island village connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway.
Pro tip: Take the car ferry across the bay from Kamenari to Lepetane. It cuts 40 minutes off the drive around the inner bay, costs just a few euros, and the crossing itself offers spectacular views of the mountains on both sides. Ferries run every 10-15 minutes year-round.
Plan this trip to map out the complete Bay of Kotor route with stops and accommodation.
2. Romania's Transfagarasan Highway
Jeremy Clarkson called the Transfagarasan "the best road in the world" on Top Gear, and while that claim is subjective, the road's statistics are undeniably impressive. Built between 1970 and 1974 on the orders of Nicolae Ceausescu as a strategic military route across the Carpathian Mountains, the Transfagarasan (DN7C) climbs to 2,042 metres, making it the second-highest paved road in Romania. It features 830 bridges, 27 viaducts, and 550 metres of tunnels carved through solid rock.
The road ascends the northern face of the Fagaras Mountains from Cartisoara through a series of increasingly dramatic hairpin bends, passing Balea Waterfall before emerging at Balea Lake, a glacial lake at 2,034 metres surrounded by alpine meadows and rocky peaks. The descent on the southern side is equally spectacular, dropping through dense forest to the shores of the Vidraru Reservoir, a vast artificial lake held back by a 166-metre-high dam.
Essential Transfagarasan information
- Open season: The high section (above Balea Waterfall) is typically open only from late June to late October. Check current conditions before setting out.
- Length: 90 km end to end, but allow a full day with stops for photos, the lake, and the waterfall.
- Starting points: Sibiu from the north, Curtea de Arges or Pitesti from the south.
- Traffic: Weekends in July and August can be extremely busy. Visit on a weekday or in September for a better experience.
- Combine with: The Transalpina (DN67C), Romania's highest road at 2,145 metres, is nearby and arguably even more scenic with far fewer tourists.
Pro tip: Don't skip the Transalpina (DN67C), located about 100 km west. It is higher than the Transfagarasan, almost entirely deserted, and passes through landscapes that feel like the rooftop of the world. The stretch between Ranca and Novaci is extraordinary. Together, the two roads make a superb three-day loop from Sibiu.
3. The Albanian Riviera
The Albanian Riviera is the Mediterranean's best-kept secret, a stretch of coastline between Vlora and Saranda in southern Albania that rivals anything in Greece or Croatia for natural beauty, at a fraction of the cost. The driving route follows the SH8 coast road, which was substantially improved in the 2010s but retains a wonderfully adventurous character: steep climbs, tight switchbacks, and sudden views of turquoise coves that take your breath away.
The road climbs over the Llogara Pass at 1,027 metres, where the transition from the grey, industrial outskirts of Vlora to the paradisal coast below is one of the most dramatic reveals in European driving. Below the pass, the road descends through pine forests to a succession of beaches and coves: Palase, Dhermi, Drymades, Gjipe, Himara, Porto Palermo, and finally Ksamil, a cluster of beaches with water so clear it looks digitally enhanced.
Albanian Riviera stops
- Llogara Pass: Stop at one of the roadside restaurants for grilled lamb with views over the Ionian Sea to Corfu. Paragliders launch from the pass.
- Dhermi and Drymades: Twin beaches with clear water, beach bars, and an increasingly stylish hotel scene. Still far cheaper than equivalent spots in Greece.
- Gjipe Beach: Accessible only by boat or a 30-minute walk down a canyon. Worth the effort for a stunning hidden cove.
- Porto Palermo: A tiny bay dominated by an Ottoman-era fortress built by Ali Pasha of Ioannina, set on a small peninsula.
- Ksamil: Three small islands just offshore, reachable by swimming, with water that rivals the Caribbean.
- Butrint: A UNESCO World Heritage archaeological site near Saranda, with Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian ruins layered in a stunning lakeside setting.
Extend your trip to Tirana, Albania's vibrant capital, roughly four hours north. Plan this trip for a full Albanian road trip itinerary.
4. Croatia: Dubrovnik to Plitvice Lakes
This route through Croatia connects two of the country's most famous attractions, the medieval walled city of Dubrovnik and the otherworldly cascading lakes of Plitvice National Park, via some of the most beautiful coastline in the Adriatic. The drive covers roughly 550 km and traverses the full length of Croatia's Dalmatian coast before turning inland through the dramatic Velebit Mountains.
The coastal section follows the Adriatic Highway (E65), one of Europe's great scenic roads, built along a narrow strip between the mountains and the sea. The road passes through Split (with Diocletian's Palace, a Roman emperor's retirement home that became a living city), the medieval island-connected town of Trogir, and the resort towns of Makarska and Omis, each set beneath towering limestone peaks.
Suggested 5-day itinerary
- Day 1: Explore Dubrovnik. Walk the complete circuit of the city walls (1,940 metres), visit Fort Lovrijenac, and take the cable car to Mount Srd for sunset views.
- Day 2: Drive the Adriatic coast to Split (230 km, 3.5 hours). Stop at Ston for oysters from Mali Ston Bay and the Peljesac Peninsula for wine tasting.
- Day 3: Explore Split and Diocletian's Palace. Optional day trip to Trogir or Brac island.
- Day 4: Drive north to Plitvice Lakes (260 km, 3.5 hours). Stop in Zadar for the Sea Organ, an architectural installation that uses wave power to create music.
- Day 5: Full day at Plitvice Lakes National Park. The Upper Lakes circuit takes 3-4 hours and passes the Great Waterfall (78 metres), the tallest in Croatia.
Pro tip: Book Plitvice tickets online in advance during summer. The park now limits daily visitor numbers, and tickets sell out quickly for July and August. Arrive at 7am when the park opens for the best light and the thinnest crowds. The boardwalks over the turquoise lakes are at their most magical in early morning mist.
Plan this trip to map the complete Dubrovnik to Plitvice route with all stops.
Planning Your Balkans Road Trip
Driving in the Balkans requires a bit more preparation than Western Europe, but the rewards far outweigh the effort. Here are some practical considerations.
Border crossings
If your route crosses multiple countries (which most Balkans road trips do), be prepared for border delays. Croatia and Slovenia are in the Schengen Area; Montenegro, Albania, Serbia, Bosnia, and North Macedonia are not. Carry your passport, vehicle registration, and insurance documents. Some borders have long queues in summer, particularly the Croatia-Montenegro crossing at Debeli Brijeg. An International Driving Permit is recommended alongside your regular licence.
Road conditions
Main highways in Croatia and Slovenia are excellent (and tolled). Montenegro's main routes are good but narrow. Albania's road network has improved enormously in recent years but secondary roads can still be rough. Romania's highways are limited, but the mountain passes (Transfagarasan, Transalpina) are well-surfaced. Drive cautiously on unfamiliar roads, especially at night.
Costs
- Fuel: Generally 20-40% cheaper than Western Europe. Albania and North Macedonia are the cheapest.
- Accommodation: Excellent value throughout. A comfortable double room ranges from 25-50 EUR per night in Albania, 40-80 EUR in Montenegro and Croatia outside peak season.
- Food: Outstanding and affordable. Budget 10-20 EUR per person for a full meal with drinks at a good local restaurant.
- Tolls: Croatia has motorway tolls. Montenegro has the Sozina tunnel toll. Other countries have minimal or no tolls.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to drive in the Balkans?
Yes. The Balkans are generally very safe for road trippers. Crime rates in the region are low, and locals are overwhelmingly friendly and hospitable to visitors. The main risks are road-related: unfamiliar driving styles (overtaking can be aggressive in some countries), narrow mountain roads, and occasionally poor road surfaces on secondary routes. Drive defensively, avoid driving at night on unfamiliar mountain roads, and take breaks on long journeys. Croatia, Montenegro, and Albania are all popular driving destinations with well-established tourism infrastructure.
When is the best time for a Balkans road trip?
Late May to mid-June and September to mid-October are the sweet spots. The weather is warm and sunny, the tourist crowds are manageable, accommodation is easier to book and cheaper, and the coastal waters are warm enough for swimming. July and August bring intense heat (regularly above 35C on the coast), packed roads, and peak prices. The Transfagarasan is only open from late June to late October, so factor this in if Romania is part of your itinerary.
Can I rent a car in one country and return it in another?
Yes, but with caveats. Major rental companies like Sixt, Europcar, and Enterprise offer one-way cross-border rentals, but drop-off fees can be significant (150-400 EUR). Some rental companies restrict which countries their vehicles can enter, and Albania is a common restriction. Always declare your full itinerary to the rental company and ensure you have appropriate insurance for every country on your route. Green Card insurance is required for some Balkans countries and should be provided by the rental company if you declare your route in advance.
